Seasonal color analysis has long been a popular method for determining which colors enhance your natural beauty. While the classic four-season approach (Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter) has been the foundation for many, the 16-season system takes this concept to a whole new level of precision. But what exactly is the 16-season system, where does it come from, and how do the various interpretations of it work? In this blog post, we’ll explore the origins, the evolution, and the nuances of this detailed color analysis method.
The Origins of Seasonal Color Analysis
The roots of seasonal color analysis trace back to the early 20th century with the work of Johannes Itten, a Swiss painter and art theorist. Itten observed that his students naturally gravitated toward certain colors in their paintings, colors that often harmonized with their natural coloring. He identified four basic color types, which corresponded with the seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter.
In the 1980s, Carole Jackson popularized this concept in her book Color Me Beautiful, which introduced the four-season color analysis to the mainstream. Jackson’s method categorized people based on the undertone of their skin, hair, and eyes, assigning them to one of the four seasonal categories. Each season was associated with a specific palette of colors that were believed to be most flattering for that person.
The Evolution to 12 and 16 Seasons
As color analysis gained popularity, practitioners began to notice that not everyone fit neatly into one of the four seasons. Some people displayed characteristics of two or more seasons, leading to the development of a more nuanced system—the 12-season method. This system introduced three subcategories for each season, refining the analysis to include Light/Dark, Warm/Cool, and Bright/Muted variations within each primary season.
Eventually, color analysts recognized that even the 12-season system didn’t capture the full range of human coloring. So the idea of a 16-season system was born. This method breaks down the seasons even further, providing a highly customized approach that accounts for subtle differences in undertone, contrast level, and depth of color. Some 16 season systems account for when you fall "in between" two or more of the 12 seasons.
For a full breakdown of the 12 season system, check out the post 'What is Colour Analysis'. For a refresher, these are the most commonly practiced 12 seasons:
Spring:
- Light Spring: Light, warm, and delicate colors. Think soft peach, light coral, and pale aqua.
- Warm Spring: Warm, bright colors with a golden undertone. Includes shades like warm yellow, coral, and light turquoise.
- Bright Spring: Vibrant, warm colors with a high level of contrast. Colors like bright coral, kelly green, and cobalt blue are ideal.
Summer:
- Light Summer: Light, cool pastels that are soft and airy. Includes shades like soft pink, pastel blue, and light lilac.
- Cool Summer: Cool, muted colors with a gentle softness. Think lavender, cool pink, and sky blue.
- Soft Summer: Muted, neutral colors with a slightly cool undertone. Dusty rose, soft blue-green, and muted lavender are perfect.
Autumn:
- Soft Autumn: Soft, warm, and muted colors with a hint of coolness. Colors like soft peach, muted sage green, and dusty rose work well.
- Warm Autumn: Warm, rich colors with a golden undertone. Mustard yellow, tomato red, and warm olive green are ideal.
- Deep Autumn: Deep, warm, and rich colors with a strong presence. Dark chocolate brown, deep teal, and burnt orange are perfect.
Winter:
- Cool Winter: Cool, clear colors with a sharp, bright undertone. True blue, fuchsia pink, and icy gray are ideal.
- Bright Winter: High-contrast, vibrant colors with a cool undertone. Colors like electric blue, bright red, and crisp white are perfect.
- Deep Winter: Deep, intense colors with a cool undertone. Black, dark burgundy, and forest green work well.
Understanding the 16 Seasons
The 16-season system is based on the idea that each person has a unique combination of undertone (warm or cool), value (light or dark), and chroma (clear or muted). By refining the four basic seasons into 16, the system allows for a more tailored analysis, ensuring that individuals can find the exact palette that suits them best.
Different Interpretations of the 16-Season System
While the 16-season system has a standardized foundation, different color analysts and schools of thought may have slight variations in their approach. Here are a few interpretations:
The Sci\ART Method: This system, developed by Kathryn Kalisz, is one of the most widely recognized approaches to the 16-season system. Where the Sci\ART method is different than the 12 season system is that it separates out a 'True' season for each - creating four categories under each of the four seasons. In the 12 season system, these are combined as the same thing (for example True/Warm Autumn). The 16 seasons are:
Spring: True, Warm, Light and Bright
Autumn: True, Warm, Deep and Soft
Winter: True, Cool, Deep and Bright
Summer: True, Cool, Soft and Light
4x4 Color System: This approach divides the seasons into four quadrants (warm vs. cool, light vs. dark), with each quadrant containing four sub-seasons. The 4x4 system is known for its simplicity and ease of use, making it accessible for those new to color analysis.
Personal Color Analysis (PCA): PCA practitioners often use a combination of visual assessment and draping techniques to determine a person’s season. This method focuses on how colors interact with a person’s natural features, taking into account personal preferences and lifestyle as well.
Tonal Color Analysis
The tonal color analysis system includes 6 additional seasons beyond the typical 12 season system that account for those that have one of their dimensions of colour more dominant than the rest. This system includes the variants of True Soft, True Bright, True Deep, True Light, True Warm and True Cool. For example, someone would fall into the True Cool category if they suit colours from both the True Winter and True Summer palettes and their dominant trait is their cool undertone.
Custom Systems
I've also heard of other 16 system variations that account for being in between seasons. For example, a series of videos by YouTube creator Style Me Jenn explores 4 additional seasons: Soft Spring and Light Autumn (for those in between Spring and Autumn) and Deep Summer and Soft Winter (for those in between Summer and Winter).
House of Color
You may have heard some custom sounding terms when it comes to season names and these belong to the House of Color system. While each season can roughly be matched to that of the other 16 season systems (which I've put in brackets), there are variations on how each one is interpreted. Their seasons include:
Winter: Jewel (True), Burnished (Deep), Sprinter (Bright), Sultry (Cool)
Summer: Sweetpea (True), Pastel (Light), Deep and Soft
Autumn: Leaf (True), Soft, Blue (Deep), Vibrant (Warm)
Spring: Golden (True), Pastel (Light), Blue (Bright), Paintbox
The Benefit of the 16 Season Systems
The beauty of the 16-season system is its ability to cater to the diversity of human coloring. By refining the classic four-season approach, it allows individuals to discover a color palette that truly complements their unique features. This level of customization can make a significant difference in how someone feels about their wardrobe and overall appearance. Any of these systems can be very helpful for those that may not fit into the box of one of the 12 seasons.
The Complexity of the 16 Season Systems
As you may have noticed, there isn't one standardized 16 season system and this leads to tons of confusion between different systems - especially when there is a lack of information online. If you've been typed as one of the less popularized 16 seasons, it may be tricky to find your palette or shopping suggestions other than what your analyst provided to you.
Whether you've been typed in the 12 or one of the 16-season color analysis systems, either offer a sophisticated and highly personalized approach to finding the colors that best suit you. By understanding your specific undertone, value, and chroma, you can refine your wardrobe to reflect your true self.
If you find all of this way too confusing and time consuming, check out my Colour Analysis service. I use colour theory as well as the 12 and 16 season systems to determine the palettes that will work best for you!